Port Fairy has always been a familiar stop for me, as I used to visit the town regularly while undertaking nursing home visits in the region. Over the years, I became quite accustomed to its character, although my first impression on entering the town was often less than romantic. There was usually a rather distinctive sewage-like smell lingering in the air, an unexpected welcome to an otherwise picturesque coastal settlement!
Yet, once past that initial impression, Port Fairy reveals a landscape well worth photographing. The river and estuary provide a wonderful vantage point for an overview photograph, with the waterways winding through the town towards the coast. There is something particularly appealing about the meeting of river, estuary and ocean, especially when the changing light brings subtle reflections and textures to the water.
The weather, however, can be quite another matter. The coastal winds are notoriously strong, and on some occasions the intermittent gusts are so powerful that walking forward becomes an exercise in determination. Holding a camera steady, let alone composing a photograph, can be quite a challenge. It is one of those places where the landscape photographer must occasionally surrender to the elements and wait for a quieter moment.
There is also a fascinating history behind this seemingly peaceful town. Long before European settlement, the area was home to the Gunditjmara and Eastern Maar peoples, whose connection with the Moyne River, wetlands and surrounding coastline stretches back thousands of years. The river and estuary provided important sources of food and resources for generations.
European maritime history began with the arrival of sealers and whalers in the early nineteenth century. During the 1830s, Griffiths Island became an important base for the whaling industry. The settlement subsequently developed under the name Belfast, following the arrival of Scottish settler James Atkinson in 1843. During the gold-rush era, Port Fairy grew into an important trading harbour, exporting wool and agricultural produce. The town eventually reclaimed its original name, Port Fairy, in 1887.
Today, much of that maritime character remains, particularly around the Moyne River, where fishing boats, old wharves and historic buildings provide reminders of a busier seafaring past. Griffiths Island, with its historic lighthouse, is another reminder of the town's enduring relationship with the ocean.
Perhaps this is what makes Port Fairy interesting to revisit. Beneath its quaint coastal appearance lies a history shaped by Indigenous custodianship, whaling, shipping, fishing and the unpredictable Southern Ocean. It is a beautiful landscape, although one that occasionally reminds the photographer who is really in charge — particularly when the wind decides to blow!
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